London Collections: Mens SS15 Day 3
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London Collections: Men is back - we might only just be starting to enjoy the summer sun of 2014, but the best of menswear design are already excited to show us what to expect for Spring/Summer 2015. Whether you’re a dedicated fashion follower or just want to know what will suit your own style, The National Student can give you a heads up on the hottest trends for this time next year… A simple, refreshing palette of navy, white and sand felt like a trip to the seaside at E. Tautz, especially when countless billowing shorts and deckchair-striped tops, trousers and coats were thrown into the mix. Sheeny, silky fabrics added sophisticated texture to this collection’s minimal palette, while combinations of bold, block lines and smart pinstripes were an interesting twist on a classic pattern. Add a couple of chunky ribbed jumpers and olive showerproof jackets, including a staple parka, and Tautz gave us everything we could need for a British summer. Fierce, dark-eyed models sporting varying heights of mohawk perfectly captured the punky, tribal mood of the Sibling (pictured bottom right) SS15 show. This bold collection of cobweb knits, feathery-fringed skintight ensembles, spiked hoodies and skull motifs screamed attitude to such an extent that even furry spotted pieces and a couple of giant blood-red pom-poms seemed a little menacing! A gothic palette of red, black, off-white and blue complemented the texture-heavy aesthetic perfectly, while accessories such as bone necklaces and stompy Robert Clergerie bovver boots finished off Sibling’s tough avant-garde look to a T. Taking inspiration from traditional tribal dress, Craig Green (pictured right) offered up an elegant, conceptual collection of loose, billowing outerwear in cool, crisp tones of black, navy and pale blue. Barefooted models sashayed down the runway in deconstructed martial arts-inspired styles, light loose trousers and longer length shirts, creating a sense of calm. Green described the pared-back collection as a ‘silent protest’ once the show was over, a sentiment that could be seen in the wrapped layers and delicate ties featured throughout the range - in spite of this mysterious message, however, the overall feel of this collection was one of minimalism, simplicity and peace. A simple, monochrome selection of pieces opened the collection at Sankuanz, presented by GQ China, with loose layers of sheer and opaque fabrics bearing quirky cartoon and Chinese character prints – before exploding into a chaotic riot of colour, bold prints and crazy accessories! Inspired by armour, youth culture and street riots – which does account for the madness to some degree – Sankuanz’s models stormed the runway in illustrated black streetwear paired with colourful, fuzzy, sometimes fringed shorts. Cartoon eyes appeared on eyewear and face-covering veiled headgear but, without a doubt, the most eye-catching of finishing touches were the gigantic clenched fists, lobster claws and skeletal fingers that graced models’ arms – absolutely bonkers, and far from wearable (fancy dress parties aside), but a brilliantly imaginative show! Inspired by vintage book covers and words – particularly those of novelist and travel writer Bruce Chatwin – the Burberry Prorsum (pictured top right) show, set against a hand-painted catwalk, was a thing of beauty. Models showcased relaxed, sleek silhouettes teamed with nostalgic accessories, including leather-bound notepads, satchels and felt field hats as beloved by Chatwin himself. A rich, unseasonably autumnal palette of navy, plum, teal, ochre, copper and khaki heightened the wistful feel of the collection, which featured loose ombré shirts, long overcoats, denim jackets, velvet blazers and cropped tailored trousers, with all ensembles cleverly colour co-ordinated. Clean white t-shirts were printed with vintage-look book cover designs, while a striking cursive print graced billowing scarves, light jackets and a classic mac – all very understated, and all wonderfully wearable. ‘Neon ’70s cowboy’ is probably the best way to summarise Katie Eary’s SS15 collection. Taking inspiration from the Wild West and the free-loving ‘70s, Eary splashed fluorescent Southern sunset shades all over these vintage influences for a modern twist, mixing bleached denim with orange, pink and purple prints inspired by cacti, flower-power graphics and swirling psychedelic patterns. Panelled denim shirts, skintight jumpsuits, chest-exposing patterned shirts and fringed scarves were key pieces, while a beautifully cut fringed, tan suede jacket was a real standout piece. Tiger of Sweden's (pictured above right) smart collection offered up beautiful tailoring and lent sportswear-inspired ensembles a sophisticated edge. A palette consisting mostly of pale grey, charcoal, black and cream – graced by a couple of gorgeous slim-cut burgundy suits and sheeny, navy pinstriped pieces – worked well with the polished feel of the show, while playful details such as abstract patterns, muted checks and schoolboy style baseball caps and ankle socks kept things from being too serious. Loose city shorts and sleek satin bomber jackets were more casual summery items, but the exquisitely cut, youthful suits were looks that best expressed the tailoring heritage and expert skills of this Scandinavian label. All images courtesy of the British Fashion Council. Burberry Prorsum image copyright Sam Wilson (BFC), Craig Green image copyright Kensington Leverne (BFC), Tiger of Sweden image copyright Kensington Leverne (BFC), Sibling image copyright Sam Wilson (BFC).