London Fashion Week: Day 1
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As London Fashion Week goes on, we round up the highlights of the shows from each day. Take a look at what we can expect for Spring/Summer 2014 from the designers of day one! Bora Aksu opened London Fashion Week 2013, celebrating ten years in London with an ‘incredibly personal collection’ drawing inspiration from his Turkish roots. Understandably, traditional Turkish elements featured heavily, such as tassels, lacework and crochet featuring on hemlines, waistlines and bell sleeves. Influenced by his childhood memories, his palette played with Mediterranean colours; white and ‘evil eye bead’ blue, sunshine yellow and blooming fuchsia across a range of organza and mesh fabric details. As well as unveiling his SS14 collection (pictured), Eudon Choi revealed his new collaborative collection for River Island to a select group of press. Fervently minimalist in his designs, Choi presented well-proportioned shirtdresses, asymmetric hemlines, and small bags designed to hold only the bare essentials. However, the Korean-born designer kept things fresh with Asian exotic florals on knee-length dresses, feminine biker jackets and angular tops with sporadic sequin embellishment. Ostwald Helgason also marked ten years together at this London Fashion Week. Best known for their use of bold colours and prints, it is clear from their London Fashion Week collection that we can expect this to continue in SS14. Logos and motifs, such as a Sean O’Malley-esque balloon dog, adorn t-shirts and sweatshirts, which are sure to be a fun staple for the season ahead. While introducing new aspects such as a sheer floor skimming dress in embroidered organza, tailored floral shorts and trousers, their trademark bold stripes continued to feature on pretty flared skirts, updated with fresh, spring colours. Fyodor Golan’s ‘Electric Children’ collection was inspired by the walk to their studio every day along the river Thames. Drawing on shapes from bikers and joggers crossing Waterloo Bridge, they transform sportswear and motorwear pieces into wearable cropped jackets, classic pencil skirts, a mix of dress shapes and boxy sweatshirts. Patent yellow contrasted with softer, almost watercolour-esque brights on structured dresses and shirt dresses draped to the floor in powdery pastel shades while, at the same time, Fyodor Golan made sure to keep their edge with a smattering of marble prints, sparkling jackets and tailored cigarette trousers. Sister duo Dani and Annette Felder (Felder Felder) plunged into Fashion Week with a stunning aquatic-inspired SS14 show. Flirty, flippy cuts and short hemlines were the order of the day, alongside sheer, shimmering organza tailored into dresses and suit pieces. The water theme was clear throughout, with swathes of blue-hued silk, neoprene and chiffon floating down the catwalk, fabrics that shone like the surface of the ocean, sheer octopus-ink black bodysuits, and an abstract striped mini dress reflecting the ‘wondrous kaleidoscopic life which lives in the deepest corners of the sea'. Similarly, J. JS Lee’s SS14 collection (pictured) was inspired by the movement and iridescent colours of the jellyfish. Lee’s tendency to work with minimalist tailoring and neutral shades continued, but the SS14 palette was expanded with blue hues and splashes of salmon pink, contrasted with bold printed knitwear and glimpses of gingham. Pearce Fionda returned to London Fashion Week after a fairly lengthy break, bringing their trademark glamour and dramatic, decadent details along for the ride. Taking inspiration from the Twenties and Fifties, the designers created a couture-like collection fit to adorn any red carpet starlet. Exaggerated proportions and long, flowing skirts were crafted from rich, luxurious fabrics such as jewel-studded jacquards and georgette, sequin-embellished satins and lashings of seductively translucent lace, mesh and tulle.
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