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Top 5 trends from London Collections: Men's AW15, Day 4

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Hard to believe but, according to the fashion calendar, it’s already time to look ahead and see what we’ll be wearing for Autumn/Winter. See what the best names in menswear design have in store, and make sure your fashion game is one step ahead, with The National Student’s round-up of the top trends from each day of London Collections: Men's AW15...

Suit up

Relaxed tailoring was the order of the day at E Tautz (pictured right) and Tiger of Sweden. Inspired by the miners of the 1930s, E Tautz’s smoggy and slouchy collection was a huge hit for AW15; loose-cut trousers and blazers were teamed with crisp white shirts or chunky fairisle knits, as well as heavy, structured overcoats. An abundance of grey checks, flannels, tweeds and wools made this collection totally season-appropriate – cosy, but cool. Tiger of Sweden are known for their skinny-fit suits and the brand’s AW15 collection was as sharp as always, but given a more casual vibe, as smart trousers and sheeny jackets were paired with fine-knit jumpers, t-shirts, bomber jackets and snuggly oversized coats. The rule of thumb for laidback tailored style this winter? Stick to darker shades, and layer them up in warm, wintry fabrics.

Minimalism to the max

Craig Green stayed true to form with a minimal palette, interesting shapes, simple yet stunning details, and barefooted models. Harking back to his SS15 collection, Green’s catwalk had an aura of calm; fabrics were light and billowy to help construct a new silhouette (tight at the top, with wide parachute pants) with loose-hanging strap details and some degree of oriental influence, with obi belts and warrior-esque tabards. The restrained colour scheme of black, white and red – with the occasional pop of bright red or bottle green – reflected the pared-back, minimal, Zen-like feel of the overall style of the collection. While we don’t expect everyone to rush out and buy parachute pants ahead of next season (truth be told, they’re just plain impractical in the face of blustery British winter winds), Green’s simplistic approach to colour is certainly one to take on board.

Insides out

Katie Eary (pictured right) always brings the fun, and her Jeff Koons-influenced collection for AW15 didn’t disappoint! A refreshingly bright burst of colour in fashion’s mostly grey/navy/khaki winter world, Eary once again combined sunset shades of hot pink, warm orange and sumptuous purple along with blue and teal – but, while the colourful combinations caused quite a stir, the real standout trend from this show were Eary’s bold, quirky organ and skeleton prints. Models didn’t wear their hearts on their sleeves so much as they wore their brains, teeth, ribcages and intestines on their chests!  Emblazoned on neoprene sweatshirts, t-shirts and white-shirts, these exciting graphic prints and appliques were a brilliantly lively addition to the trends on offer for this year’s autumn/winter months – and so easy to wear! Layer a loose-fitting brain-print T-shirt over a bright, long-sleeved turtleneck, and you’re good to go.  

Burberry bohemia

The ‘70s have been a huge influence on designers across London Collections: Men’s this season, and Burberry Prorsum was no exception. Tailored and casual shapes were thrown together in a mish-mash of paisley prints, leopard spots, tartan and tile prints to reflect the bohemian, globe-trotting atmosphere of the collection. A rich palette of burnt orange, mustard, olive, burgundy, camel, navy, teal, grey and fuchsia shouldn’t have worked, but the brand pulled it off by combining unexpected colour combinations with clashing prints, embroidered fabrics and plenty of texture. The classic Burberry trench made an appearance, as did last year’s hugely popular poncho, while relaxed tailoring and loose layers created casual silhouette which enhanced the laidback nature of this look. Almost anything goes when it comes to Burberry’s boho AW15 style – just make sure to include plenty of paisley, contrasting colours, clashing prints and a good pair of tailored trousers.

A Western winter

Sticking to structured silhouettes was a clever move by Xander Zhou (pictured right), where old school Hollywood cowboys were the main inspiration. Combining classic ‘Wild West’ elements with clean modern shapes ensured that this collection didn’t end up as some sort of homage to the cowboy from the Village People, as a largely monochrome palette of white, black and grey was peppered with camel shades, vibrant blues, graphic prints and traditional patterns. There were lashings of leather in both black and tan, oversized chunky cream knits, stonewashed denim, faux fur details, studs, tassels and fringed trims – but without feeling too ‘busy’. Key items were plain cowboy boots with cleated soles, denim jackets and shirts, structured and embroidered overcoats, and aviator style jackets with shearling or faux fur collars – for anyone with childhood cowboy ambitions, it’s finally time to live the dream.

Images courtesy of British Fashion Council: photographers Dan Sims (E. Tautz and Xander Zhou images) and Shaun James Cox (Katie Eary image).

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